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Exotic Hardwoods California
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East Indian Rosewood Neck blanks

rosewood

East Indian Rosewood Neck blanks

The middle, narrow section of the guitar is called the neck. The nut is the white strip closest to the headstock. The front side of the neck is called the fretboard. And the metal wires on the fretboard are called the frets, which help your fingers find the right spots.The biggest part of the guitar is called the body, which has a hole in the middle called the sound holeOn the body, the bridge, the saddle, and the bridge pins hold the wires in place.

What is a Neck-Thru Electric Guitar?

Neck-through, or neck-thru, is when the same piece of wood that makes up the neck of a guitar also makes up the middle section of the body itself. This section is then used to mount the bridge, saddles and pickups for the best possible sustain on a guitar. The rest of the guitar’s shape is then made up of ‘wings’, that become the bottom third and top third of the guitar. This is done using a laminate construction process.

This middle neck-through laminate gives guitar makers the opportunity to bind different wood types together. This has been used to great effect to offer stunning neck stability, by companies like Ibanez and Schecter. You can get 3-piece, 5-piece, 7-piece and more!

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Pros of Neck-through guitars

Because neck-thru guitars are often made up of different types of wood (whether 3-piece or more), the neck will be less susceptible to conditions that might cause warp and twist. It’s almost like the woods counteract each other for more stability.

Neck-thru is regarded as the neck type that offers the best overall sustain and resonance. The strings will vibrate the entire piece of wood that is housing the pickups, and transfer sound to your amp. They are often favoured by shredders for their strength in maintaining a low action without the wood moving much.

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Cons of neck-through guitars

There is an argument to say that single wood pieces resonate better because no matter how tightly wood is glued together, there are still gaps that will slow the energy transferral. And although these might be minuscule, when multiplied by 7, you’re potentially losing a lot of energy/tone. A single piece of wood, Mahogany for example, will have consistent density because it’s from the same tree rather than from 7 potentially different trees.

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Having a neck-through also means you have breaks in the wood between the wings, which could also cause tone loss. Purists often prefer single-piece mahogany back and two-piece Maple top (or even one piece if you want something really fancy).

It’s exactly what you might have been thinking whilst reading this entire article – it’s all down to choice and preference. It’s also worth having different guitars in your arsenal to get those different sounds. If you’re only going to have one, you need to weigh up what’s more important to you and your needs.

My favourite guitar is a Custom 24 with a set Mahogany neck, but I also have a small collection of Telecasters because they just twang better than anything else out there! It’s all personal preference after all. If only trees grew fully formed, ready to play electric guitars…

Appearance of Wood: The heartwood of the Indian Rosewood is known for its beauty. The color of the heartwood ranges from a medium to dark brown and on occasion it can be purple with bold dark brown to dark purple streaks through the wood. Indian Rosewood has a uniform texture. The wood received its name from the fragrant aroma produced when the wood is first cut. As the wood ages it will darken to a deep brown color.

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Density: Indian Rosewood is a heavy timber with high strength characteristics. It is extremely hard compared to the actual weight of the wood after being thoroughly seasoned. Average reported specific gravity ranges from .70 to .83 with an air-dried weight of 52 pounds per cubic foot. Janka Hardness is 2,440 pounds of force.

Drying and Shrinkage: Indian Rosewood dries well but it is recommended to dry the wood slowly to avoid checking and end splitting. Average reported shrinkage values are 2.7% radial, 5.9% tangential, 8.5% volumetric.

Working Properties: Due to the density and interlocked grain of Indian Rosewood, it can be difficult to work with. Cutting edges quickly become dull due to chalky deposits on the wood. Care must be taken throughout the finishing process as it is not uncommon for natural resins from the wood to impose before it can be seal coated properly. Generally, Indian Rosewood glues and finishes well.

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The neck of a guitar includes the guitar’s fretsfretboardtunersheadstock, and truss rod. The wood used to make the fretboard will usually differ from the wood in the rest of the neck. The bending stress on the neck is considerable, particularly when heavier gauge strings are used, and the ability of the neck to resist bending is important to the guitar’s ability to hold a constant pitch during tuning or when strings are fretted. The rigidity of the neck with respect to the body of the guitar is one determinant of an instrument’s quality. Conversely, the ability to change the pitch of the note slightly by deliberately bending the neck forcibly with the fretting arm is a technique occasionally used, particularly in the blues genre and those derived from it, such as rock and roll. The shape of the neck’s cross-section can also vary from a gentle curve to a more pronounced “V” shape. (On steel string guitars, the fretboard is typically gently rounded across its width. On classical guitars, the playing surface of the fretboard is generally flat.[1])

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Marker dots on the face of the fretboard of modern guitars are usually placed at frets 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 (double dot to indicate the octave), 15, 17, 19, 21, 24 (double dot to indicate the second octave). It’s also common that there are marker dots on the “upper” side of the neck, near the edge of the fretboard, where the player can easily see which fret they are on. Sometimes the dots are replaced with bars, the octave positions having a wider bar. Classical guitars almost never feature position markers, especially on the fretboard’s face, whereas electric guitars usually do. This is due to several factors:

1) Electric guitars do not rely on a resonating body chamber to produce sound and therefore the inert bodywood may be carved more deeply to allow better access to higher frets.

2) Electric guitars also sport an extended high-end range, due to the above reason. Typically, up to 24 frets are used.

3) Electric guitars vary greatly in terms of scale length, depth of lower and – if present – upper rout and where these connect to the neck at its heel, and number of frets (usually between 21 and 24). In contrast, classical guitar dimensions are standardised, with the 12th fret aligning with the neck-end of the body, use of only 19 frets, and scale length of 25.6″.

A set neck is a neck that is glued into the guitar body. This type of construction (some would argue) provides excellent sustain and resonance, as the neck and body are essentially one solid piece. Set necks are often found on guitars like the Gibson Les Paul and SG.

A bolt-on neck, on the other hand, is attached to the guitar body either with self-tapping wood screws – as in the case of Fender and others, or – as in the case of our guitars – with heavy duty machine bolts that mate with tee-nuts embedded between the neck heel and the fretboard. Fender introduced the idea of a bolt-on neck as a way to achieve cost efficiencies in production, but it also makes replacing, repairing or adjusting necks much easier. With wood screw-attached necks, you just have to be careful about how many times you detach and reattach the neck as the screw holes can become stripped – something our bolt and tee-nut design avoids altogether.

Finally, there’s the thru-neck, which is a neck that extends all the way through the guitar body. This type of construction provides the most sustain and resonance of all, and it’s often found on high-end guitars. Thru-necks are also the most difficult to repair or replace, so they require more care and attention.

So, does it matter which type of neck construction you choose? Ultimately, it depends on your personal preferences and playing style. If you’re looking for maximum sustain and resonance, a set neck or thru-neck may be the way to go. If you prefer a brighter, more articulate tone, a bolt-on neck may be a better choice.

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